@NiksSofa
[ ] No, I would not like to see Tom try to make a chrome Benchy. [ X ] Yes, I would like to see Tom try to make a chrome Benchy.
@ingmarm8858
German company LPKF who manufacture high end PCB mills also have a 3d electroplating system which allows you to selectively plate complex shapes to - for example - put antenna shapes onto objects. They have a spray paint which allows the electroplating to happen on plactic etc parts. Maybe that is worth exploring.
@stewiex
I had similar results to you for much cheaper. 1. I made my own copper sulfate using peroxide/white vinegar, water and simple 1/2 inch copper pipe. 2. I used copper pipe as the electrode. 3. I coated a normal PLA print with spray adhesive and copper leaf. A) This needs improving and doesn't work great on small details because it is hard to get the leaf to stick. B) I had limited success using graphite powder from a crushed up lead pencil. You can buy fine graphite powder, but I was doing it on the cheap. 4. I found an ordinary AA battery gave me the right amount of electricity flow. A 9V was too powerful.
@jameyrk100
Your copper electrolyte might be too concentrated for the geometry you are plating. Electroplating is a balancing act of depositing metal to your part with the current and the electrolyte eating the coating that you just applied away. Also, even though the alligator clips make good contact, the best practice is to never put steal or other metals into your plating bath as it will foul the electrolyte. Great video and good luck.
@hadinossanosam4459
If you're going for copper or nickel anyway, electroless plating might be a better choice: works on non-conductive materials, doesn't have current density (="shadowing") issues, and can be (and industrially is) used as a conductive base to then electroplate other metals (e.g. ENIG finish for PCBs is electroless nickel, immersion gold). I don't know how nasty the chemicals are, though
@RegularOldDan
Phew. I'm glad I watched this before actually trying anything. I've been considering trying electroplating for years (ever since seeing someone tout a solution they have had in development for years now with no release date in sight) but always had a niggling feeling that it would be far more difficult and expensive than I had thought. While still "attainable," spending as much on equipment and consumables as a cheap printer just doesn't seem like a value proposition I'd want to consider at this point. Not to mention the chemicals I've long had reservations about having near kids and pets. Excellent detail and information and much appreciated.
@edumaker-alexgibson
This was a terrific video, Tom. I like that you honestly presented the results of a reasonable amateur attempt using the recommended products and tools, and documented what actually happens. I would love to see you go further with this. I am still going to give it a go, so you've already saved me bothering with the conductive filament and graphite spray, but confirmed I do have most of the necessary gear, just need some copper paint.
@milhooz
I have seen someone make a 3D Printed Daft Punk helmet with a mirror Chrome coating with only chemical coating, no electro coating. It worked well.
@HexenzirkelZuluhed
This is very interesting. I vote YAY for the chrome benchy. As you said: there's much more exploration to be done.
@HotboiEngineering
If you’re painting the part, could you maybe use vaporsmoothed ABS or Polymaker Polysmooth? That way the chrome would be super shiny and smooth.
@fred-9929
A few months ago, someone asked me to 3D print some decorative parts to restore an old Ford (Mustang, I think?). He sanded/filled/sanded the parts, and send them to another guy to put chrome on them. The result is amazing! I have to idea what was the process, but it worked really well. You can even bend the part without damaging the chrome.
@lensineer
I once saw a industrial application for plating ABS plastic and it was astonishing how thick and solid the coat was almost felt like a real metal part. It also wasn't a expensive part, it was just a cover that gets replaced quite regularly but needs the metal surface to withstand sparks (it was from a welding robot). AFAIK they first deposit a thin layer of silver or palladium on there but also through electrolysis. Also I am absolutely for the chrome Benchy!
@christianzilker28
Very interesting, i didn´t try somethimg like this for my self ...yet. By the way i am an electroplater and i own a 3d printer. I think the plating solutions are simple ones with citric or sulfuric acid. They should work for simple things. Here some tips: 1.) Preparing the surface: proper cleaning of parts, you didnt mention it in the video. You should clean the Copper sprayed parts atleast with isoprop. and put them for a few seconds in in the plating solution BEFORE you switch on the powersupply. You cant electroplate on oxides, this should get rid of them. Also counts for Anodes 2.) Always use constant Current function, Plating Current works in tandem to Surface size.Double the size Double the Current. It should not change while palting. If bubbles start to form at the Kathode your Current is to High or the Solution is to weak. 3.) Get More metal ions in your Plating solution. If you use Nickelelectrolyte with sulfuric acid try adding Nickelsulfate. Higher temp should also help, around 40-50°C is Normal with Nickelplating . 4.) To get rid of Electrolyte inside of the parts, flush it out. Kepp the plated part in clean water for 1 hour or longer. I hope that helps a little bit Have fun
@wbcc3388
Could you elaborate on why the company names were taped over?
@ZakLeek
Thanks for sharing this great video Tom! It was really interesting to see your experimental processes. I don't think I will try this at home, but it might be a fun thing to explore sometime in the future.
@ianbottom7396
Thomas I have been plating prints for several years now and I agree 100% on conductive filaments. Sealing is a good idea, hollow prints can still be done if you fill with distilled water or simply use weights to hold under. Using a small gear motor to turn your job in the bath constantly helps with coverage. Anodes need to be the correct grade, many grades of copper don’t work well, if you aren’t using product sold as anodes, try using refrigeration grade copper tube. Final tip is electroplating is best done as constant current and typically I use 0.1 amps per square inch and start even lower so you don’t burn the conductive paint off which is poss. You also get best results when your anode area is 2:1 versus the area of your job
@theplinkerslodge6361
Great, great share, Thomas. Very realistic reporting out your results... It seems you got the process to a level of creating compound finishes, the two material copper and chrome has potential as stylistic add to a print.
@JonS
I believe a thin electroless plating of Palladium works well to get good adhesion to plastic. At least that's what a partner company did in a pan-European project I was part of once. You might want to find a plating expert at a company in Germany and pay them a visit with some prints. It would make for an interesting video.
@Corn_DOG
I watched a guy called Alex Labs do this and he seemed to have better results.... he used only one + and one - point in his solution. He also used spray on conductive material but he stressed to polish this coat before moving forward showing that a poished surface had much better resistance. Good luck on future experiments
@BigFootpl